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Author Topic: DIY Ring-Flash with build imgs and sample shots...  (Read 125501 times)
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BCR686
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« Reply #90 on: November 18, 2009, 03:34:43 AM »

More Progress.  Still waiting on Off shoe cord.

I decided to use Vacuum tubing to protect the flash head from scratches.  It seems to have worked out well.



Wow, that tubing is so plush. Can you be a little more specific as to what you used or maybe where to get some? Thanks.

Well a little update with my build; everything is pretty much done except for bending the aluminum(yeah I went with the lighter material, the steel was just waaay too heavy). I have a 40D with battery grip so the bending may be a little tricky for me. If anyone has any tips for how and what to measure that would be great.

I'm also waiting on some parts:

Clamp Style Flash Cold Shoe for Stroboframe: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160374312119

Camera Photographic Screw: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220400594294
« Last Edit: November 18, 2009, 04:27:41 AM by BCR686 » Logged
motleypixel
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« Reply #91 on: November 18, 2009, 08:17:50 AM »

BCR, reference this link:  DIY_ringflash_diagram  check out the design for the 5D plus battery grip.

-Roy
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Mike Sears
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« Reply #92 on: December 15, 2009, 08:11:52 PM »

Where do you get the captive screws? I'm so glad you are willing to teach us how to build our own ring flash. Just started mine. My buddy Trevor is making his at the same time. We're stoked!
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motleypixel
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« Reply #93 on: December 15, 2009, 09:42:32 PM »

Good deal Mike.  I cannibalized mine from an old strobo-frame strobe bracket, but you can order them:  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=tripod+screw&N=0&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0

-Roy
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« Reply #94 on: December 22, 2009, 10:51:34 AM »

I made one for my Canon 40D and 420EX Speedlight.  Since the size of the camera and flash were different, I mocked out the shape of the steel bracket with a metal shirt hanger first to know where to make all the bends.

I ended up having to use 2 extra layers of cutting mat and a layer of wax paper on the bottom half to even out the light output with the top half of the reflector.



More "build" photos and an example shot can be found here on my blog if you care to look.

- Willis
http://www.willisbretz.com
http://blog.willisbretz.com
« Last Edit: February 15, 2011, 03:10:30 PM by willisbretz » Logged

motleypixel
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« Reply #95 on: December 22, 2009, 11:14:26 AM »

Check it out...made the bend for a battery grip...looks great!

Welcome to the MP Willis, I'm heading over to check out your blog.  Thanks for joining and please be sure to post some sample shots when you get a chance.

-Roy
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wito
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« Reply #96 on: January 03, 2010, 09:14:20 AM »

Hello!

Sorry for my english! Great job!

Important that the flash is up or down?
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motleypixel
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« Reply #97 on: January 03, 2010, 10:15:41 PM »

Hello and welcome wito,

It doesn't matter how the orientation "behavior" of the flash is installed...up/down it really doesn't matter so long as it flashes inside and as perpendicular as possible to the inner reducer.

-Roy
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« Reply #98 on: January 09, 2010, 12:52:03 PM »

Hi Motley,

Very informative thread you got..

Just joined in.. Cheesy

I am currently building my own but since I'm here in the Philippines your parts aren't readily available...

I used a baking aluminum pan... about Dia 10.5 " - 11 " and 3 " deep.
I would be using this for portraiture and macro work...

I wanted my soon to be sigma 150mm macro to stick out of the Ring flash ( probobly will if i mount the flash very close to the body ) so I can MF the glass.. length of the glass would be around 5 " .

My question is this.. For the ring flash to do its thing ( shadowless / soft / even lighting ) would the lens need to be recessed so that it isn't sticking out of the ring flash or it doesn't matter? how about flare?
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« Reply #99 on: January 09, 2010, 01:01:45 PM »

Hello areosmith and welcome to the forum.  I hope to see some shots of your final product and test shots.

Good question about the lens positioning.  Here's the thing...too far recessed and you will vignette the frame (shadows around the corners/edges) and too far beyond the front of the DIY RingFlash could cause shadow casting from your lens, esp. with close-up for macro shots.  My suggestion...try to temp test positions before drilling to permanently affix the lens/cam position.

Good luck!

-Roy
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aerosmith9110
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« Reply #100 on: January 09, 2010, 01:37:31 PM »

tnx, for the prompt reply.. Will try to post..

 but my 150 would arrive prob next month ( due to budget constraints ) so I can't post the pics with the flash. and I just started  a while ago on the project.

will try to take pics when i'm done Cheesy


opps.. Forgot BTW, reg the lens protruding its just say 2 - 3 " out... by your test and exp will this cast a shadow? 

another thing... The pan doesn't have a polished surface.. your regular dull pan... I was thinking of putting a reflective Sticker ( reflectorized sticker as we call it here ) its the sticker that bikers usually put for added visibility at night.. do you think it would be better to put it?
« Last Edit: January 09, 2010, 04:42:39 PM by aerosmith9110 » Logged
motleypixel
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« Reply #101 on: January 09, 2010, 05:20:43 PM »

It's hard to say...just take test shots and compare i.e. no extension vs. 2" and if the shots look the same I'd say you are okay with 2"...be keep testing different extended lengths.

I'm not sure about that reflective tape...maybe someone can comment but I think it could cast a color-cast...not sure.  I use foil tape...it's duct-work shinny silver foil tape.  Maybe you could actual foil (most shinny side) and spray on adhesive Huh

-Roy
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icantcu
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« Reply #102 on: January 17, 2010, 03:32:47 AM »

Huh, I thought I was late tot he party, but it seems this ahs been going on all year.

I went ahead and just worked with what I could find at the local mom & pop hardware store, so it isn't quite up to code.

Currently I'm working with a Canon Rebel XTi.  I intend to upgrade to a 5D MkII soon, so really this go around is just practice or a rough draft, really.

I got a 10" reflector lamp and 4"x6" vent reducer, as such my light source is smaller and I think I am deffinitly getting less light out of my flash for this smaller area.  I still deffinitly get the effect I want, but it just isn't quite as powerful as it could be. 

I chose to simply work with my Cactus wireless triggers, and while this bites me every once in a while it isn't so much that I'm particularly bothered.  On top of that, I could always just wire them up.

I ended up with a lot less bending to do on my bar to connect my Sunpak Auto 383- just one right angle to make.  I didn't like how my camera was only supported along one axis, so I added a cross bar flush with the flash bell to support the width of the camera as well.

I too got the problem of way too much light on the bottom half of the ring, where the flash was inserted.  I simply added a layer of duct tape and that seems to have evened out the light quite nicely.

Lots of tape and a little elbow greese and I ended up with this.







And so far I've gotten results like this



And this

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« Reply #103 on: January 17, 2010, 10:20:23 AM »

Good job...thanks for posting your efforts.
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largephotography
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« Reply #104 on: February 20, 2010, 03:30:41 PM »

Hey Roy! I'm the guy you referred here from YouTube last night. My name there is different(hybriddesignz) but thats an old webdesign account name. Anyways, i cant wait to make one of these using your videos/pictures and show my progress as i go.
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